Cao lau is the quintessential Hoi An dish — Photo by Source: CNN

My first restaurant opened in Hoi An three decades ago. At the time, Hoi An was an old trading village and Vietnam was cut off from the western world thanks to a trade embargo designed to invert the result of what we call the American War. But us Hoianese persevered, and shortly after I served my first meals, a small group of New Zealanders trickled in for dinner. Australians and Europeans soon followed. By 1995, the United States was allowing trade between our countries to resume and our “Ancient Town” began to blossom into the major tourist destination that it is now.

I learned a lot about Westerners, particularly how different they are from us Vietnamese. For example, they are typically punctual, outspoken and they eat a lot of protein.

For the past two years, however, we Vietnamese have been separated from the West once again, though this time by a viral pandemic rather than a war. It is a different time than when I met those New Zealanders to be sure. The economy is global. Democracies and communist economies have learned to co-exist harmoniously–for the most part. Because I own a mini-empire of restaurants and a hotel, largely made possible by Western visitors, this Lockdown 2.0 should feel more painful, but it does not. It may well be more painful for those on the outside.

The reason has a lot to do with the differences between us, which I have found myself reflecting upon lately. In the East, we believe in seasons and balance. We are humble and scrappy, always preparing for the next test. If you disagree, tell me, how many American or European businesses could survive without customers for two years, as we have?

I read that Americans are now quitting their jobs en masse. We in Vietnam have witnessed our own “Great Resignation” too, though ours is not a resigning from work; rather it is about being resigned to the vicissitudes of life generally and the drought that comes naturally after a flood. We do not complain about such things. We welcome them as a time to cleanse and reinvigorate ourselves.

After thirty years working virtually non-stop, the pandemic has afforded me a once in a lifetime opportunity to take stock of my life and my business. For me personally this has been a period of introspection, not panic. My father taught me that out of every negative situation or event, we can find something positive. He also admonished that if I just waited for someone to tell me what to do, I would never be free. Of course he was right, even in a lockdown!

Prior to the arrival of COVID-19, my business involved running several restaurants, a cooking school and hotel, and employing 500+ staff. When the pandemic emptied out Hoi An, I was forced to put my restaurants on hiatus. Without the work that has consumed my life for so long, I had to find something to fill my time. This did not prove difficult.

Over the years, I have wanted to update, upgrade and remodel several of my establishments. Even before the pandemic I had plans to make improvements, but when I realized how long it would be until Hoi An was likely to see international tourism return, I decided that a large-scale remodeling could be undertaken. I have now built the largest F&B venue in Hoi An. We recently opened up during the Tet Holiday, our new year, and served hundreds of guests a day.

During the lockdown, I also created a wellness-focused food and hygiene kit to be donated to frontline workers in Vietnam. We are also developing an herbal coffee with a partner in Thailand, which recently reopened.

As well as expanding my business operations, I sought to explore myself during Covid. I have long been interested in the arts. I am an avid dancer, with Tango being my personal favorite. I have gotten to a reasonably competent level now.

When I dance, I communicate with every part of my body. I am aware of every muscle–its position, how it connects and coordinates with the rest of my body. I have learned how to regulate my breathing to conserve my energy. And what I learn during these lessons helps in other ways. For example, even cueing up a shot at the pool table–knowing how to place my legs to create the solid foundation and how each arm should be positioned, either firm or relaxed, to make the best shot. And when I sit in front of my drum kit, I have to balance my arms and legs, both synchronizing or separating their movements, while at the same time delivering the correct amount of force to the drum skins and cymbals.

Developing myself through the arts is a beautiful journey and the best way to get to know myself. I believe that exploring these latent skills or abilities can help in every aspect of my life, including my business, of course.

It is said that God created us perfectly but I would say that perhaps there are two deficiencies. Our eyes and ears only point outwards. In order to be fulfilled and reach our full potential, we need to look inwards and listen to our bodies.

It is also about finding balance, which is a core Eastern value. The artistic side of us provides the yin component and our work, our career, provides the yang. Everything I do outside of work, helps me in my work.


Rather than dwell on the negative aspects of the COVID-19 pandemic, or race to get back to the old normal, as we have seen happen in the West, I have used my time to reflect and look inwards. Ultimately I hope to emerge from this situation as a better, and possibly more successful and fulfilled, person.

James Scurlock
Taste Vietnam by Ms Vy